Field trip to the weaving village, Pochampally

When I think of a village several things come to mind. I think of self-sufficiency, dirt roads, strict social rules, and hand made homes. Although from my short visit I did see most of these things, I saw a lot more that cannot fit under the tight term of village.

            The people of Pochampally do not live much different that those of more urban areas. I found that the similarity outweighed the differences. Their mannerisms, transportation, clothing, and daily practices were all the same. These people were doing their daily work, socializing with friends, and going to their religious areas. What I did see that set them apart was overall more happiness. This “small town” feel was throughout the village. When we first got there we were advised not to smile at the locals. But most everyone I made eye contact with greeted me with a smiling face. I felt safe there.

            It’s hard to talk about a group of people that I merely got to watch and look at for a few minutes. This village and this culture have been around longer than I can even equate. I have no place or power to judge or collectively pass a generalization on an entire village. I wish that we could’ve gone in smaller groups and sat and learned with a family. Had a meal with them or even learned their names. But with this large of a group, such excursions are hard to set up.

            I think one of the reasons I also feel this way was because some of the other students were taking pictures and talking amongst their selves as if we were touring a zoo. It was so disrespectful to get in a child’s face with a digital camera. It was as if they were mocking their lives from behind their literal lens as well and their thinking lens.

            We were disrupting their life, we were strutting around in their homes with shoes on, and we were the ones that should be seen as “uncivilized”. It honestly broke my heart to see a group of privileged college students act as if they were naïve children. I hope that we or at least, I didn’t offend them in anyway. I have so many questions for rural and urban citizens of India. How can I gain their perspective or trust when my peers are stomping around like monkeys?

            Enough of the unleashing of my frustrations, I was so grateful to see and understand the work and person behind the products I have bought and seen on backs of citizens in my foreign home. It was incredibly powerful to see the start to finish product of cloth and clothing. 45 days to make one sari is mind-blowing. The patience and love that going into each string has a story that then carries on once it is carried by someone else. I find it poetic.

            The children mischievously ran around us, following us, and staring at us in curiosity. What I found to be surprising to me was the amount of western clothes on the children. There were two girls that were interested in us and came around for our tour. One was dressed in a white sparkly spotted dress with thin straps. The other girl was in a floral button up and black jeans. Eventually we shared a smile and I asked them to take a photo with me. They nodded and we posted for a snap shot. I then showed them the picture and told them that they were beautiful. I meant it. They both beamed and nodded again in thanks. I didn’t see them again after that.

            The products at the shop were prettier and more interesting than the ones I have seen at the markets. I happily bought five of them for my family and I. As we made our way out to the factory it was tucked away in the middle of nowhere. I wondered how people go to work everyday, how long of hours do they spend here, and do they wish they could do their work in the comfort of their own home. The factory was large and relatively empty. In all separate rooms men and women were doing the different stages of the looming. In the factory the feeling was less friendly and I felt as if we were disrupting more so than in the village. Or maybe it was the fact that they were not enjoying their type of work there.

            Apart from the factory was a school to help women and men learn the trade of weaving to help support their family. A man that I didn’t recognize paraded us through the school showing off the different stations and practices. He was proud of this school, as he should be. But I couldn’t shake the feeling that these women were not as proud or perhaps not getting the rewards of their work.

            The last stop of the factory was a small one-floor building. As I walked in it was noticeable nicer than either areas of the factory. It had bright white smooth tile, the goods were organized and placed on rich wood shelves, and there was even a display bed for different sheets and blankets. I took off my shoes and glanced around. I sat down on a chair, a luxury that none of the workers in any of the factories had, and noticed that most everyone was much more keen on buying from this shop, even though it was much more expensive. This store was set up for western eyes and this technique worked. Twice as many people bought something compared to the other store. 

Short Interview

For my interview I chose to learn more about one of our peer mentors, Ilika. I wanted to know more about her life because she has experienced two vastly different Indias, namely where she is from, a tribe in a remote northeast area of India, as well as living as a student in Hyderabad, which is in southern India. Our interview session was done in English and for a few questions she preferred to type out the answer herself.

What is your full name?

Ilika Jimo, but I use “Happy Tribal Lady” as well

Where do you live? What does your house look like?

I am presently living in the University of Hyderabad, for my Ph.D. degree. But when I go home, I live with my parents in a small village. It is a beautiful hill station in the countryside.

My parents’ house is properly built, in a gorgeous location, with basic needs. These basic needs also depend on the climatic conditions. So I am talking from my own definition of basics. But these are not luxurious basics. More than anything, I must say that my parents’ house is a warm home that I always want to go back to.

What is your family like?

My parents have a big family with six daughters and two sons! I am the second youngest in the family. Our family is very close knitted, even with extended family members. Differences come up once in a while and we take that as one of the ingredients for re-bonding us! But generally out family is an easy going group. We are all respectful of each and other, love each other and support each other

How do you get around?

In my home state since we do not have trains I travel mostly by taxi or bus. But most of the time it is by taxi. If I am outside of my home stat, I usually take trains. Many of our people take flights; as for me I only take an only flight because trains can take several days to reach a destination.

For instance, if I want to come back to Hyderabad from my home state, Nagaland, inclusive of all the travelling days, it would take at least four days to reach the University. Overall I prefer the train if I have the time, I love the views and it is very economical.

What types of clothing do you like to wear?

Anything comfortable really, I wear a lot of Kutras as well as dresses with loose material pants.

What do you do in your free time?

I love nature so I love to explore. I go alone or with close friends. I like to read and catch up with my friends. It all depends on my mood.

What language(s) do you speak? How do you say “Hello” in your language?

 I speak; 1. Mother tongue (Sumi), 2. Nagamese (conversational common language of my state, Nagaland) 3. Conversational Hindi, 4. Little bit of Telugu (Andhra Pradesh), and 5. English. Some bits and pieces of some of the tribes’ dialects in our state, Nagaland. Nagaland State consists of 16 major tribes and many other sub-tribes, and each tribe has its own dialect. Some of the tribes have different dialects even within same tribe, depending on the region they belong to.

Well, ‘Hello’ in my ‘dialect’ cannot be specified, because, in literal sense, we don’t have. But since, we, as in the Naga tribes do not have script of their own, we use Modern alphabets, with a little change of sound in alphabets, and so, our, ‘hello’, would be ‘Hei’. But! We, Sumi (Tribe, I belong to) do not just say ‘hei’ when we greet people. It is generally and usually followed by a question, so… if I meet someone I know on the road, I would say, ‘Hello, how are you? Or where are you going to?’

So, here, for more clarity to you, let me assume that I meet someone I know and say ‘Hello, how are you?’

‘Hei, kishi aniye?’ or ‘hei, alo animo?’ or ‘kiu toi anikea?’ (More or less, same meaning with different intonations)

Have you traveled? Where have you traveled?

I have been around India as well as Bangkok in Thailand as well as Bremen in Germany.

What do you do for work?

I am a student, but I am involved in a part time job on and off. I will shortly be joining an internship in one of the International NGOs, starting the first of August through October.

What kinds of music do you listen to?

I listen to almost all kinds of music. Mostly English songs with countable and selective Hindi songs. Anything that has a tune and melody with tempos. It all depends on my mood, it plays a big role!

What are your favorite subjects when you were a child?

English and grammar but not so much anymore!

Is there anything else you would like to say to students in the United States?

Hmm, too many things to say but let me try to say it in a succinct way;

There are lots to explore and understand in the third world countries, in general, and Indian, in particular. It is a must to leave one’s assumptions and own lens, at home and come and try to understand from insiders’ lens and perspectives as well. If India is diverse, so, is every single state of India, in itself/ themselves, and I can strongly say that, no two different tribes, in a same state, leave alone, same state or same country, cannot be totally understood with the same lens. On that line, India is truly, in literal sense, ‘A Unity in Diversity’. So, would I would urge the students in the United States to go beyond the mainstream India and explore and understand the other side of India. This is a different India, you will surely experience. The best example would be Northeast part of India. You would be totally blown away to discover how totally different, almost all these states (8 states) are, from the mainland India in geography, physical feature, culture, religion, lifestyle, and customs. 

Getting from here to there

The rule of thumb while traveling here, is the more packed in the better. I have seen small cars with around nine people in them. Other than cars, people take the metro, bus, taxi, motorcycles, and autos. The same rule applies with these transportations. In the bus, people pile on top of each other and squeeze through to get off at the right stop. Since it isn’t air conditioned, it can get really hot and smelly. The metro runs underground and can take you all over the city. These are thankfully cooled! They also have compartments for just women. The women only section is a safety precaution as well as a comfort for the female passengers and their children. On the streets and highways motorcycles will have up to five passengers on with them. No one wears a helmet. Often time’s people will transport things along with them on motorcycles. I have seen people carrying impressive amounts of goods and packages.

Two men carrying a TV on the highway

But, by far my favorite form of transportation has been an elephant! When we went to Jaipur, we visited The Amber Fort. This is a fort created to protect the city of Jaipur from British soldiers that were trying to colonize the town. It is on top of a hill and looks down on Jaipur and it’s mountains. The hike up to the fort can be long and tiring, so you can hire an elephant! We had to wake up at 5 a.m. to be able to but the early morning was worth the experience. We climbed up a stairway that leads to nowhere and from there hopped on top of the elephant. Rocking back and forth on a small metal platform we made it to the top of the fort. It was a beautiful journey up the hill and even more glorious at the top!

Riding to Amber Fort

The campus of Hyderabad is on the outskirts of town; it is also very spread out. If you’re dorm or hostel isn’t close to your classroom you have to ride a bike. It would take hours to explore the campus. It is full of fields, forests, and lakes. There are wild dogs that walk us to class and roaming buffalos in the valleys. Because we are kind of of isolated, we have to take taxis to the city. Once we call for a taxi, they take us wherever we want to go and then they wait for us after were done with our movie, shopping, or dinner, and they take us back. Usually were gone for about three hours and the total cost is about 13 American dollars. This is a great price and a safe way of traveling.

Since the role of a driver is a man’s job here, all our drivers from buses to autos are all male. One thing you have to be aware of is your safety. It doesn’t matter if you’re in your hometown, a big city in America, or in a foreign country. So when four America girls are traveling by their selves, we tend to be a rather large and obvious target. And alt

hough we have a phone on us at all times, there are rarely street signs or a way of telling someone where exactly you are.

For example, last Saturday we four went to a big mall called Inorbit. It is about 15 minutes away from campus by taxi. We went to “Now You See Me” and grabbed an ice cream cone on our way out. When the taxi driver picked us up it was already dark out. As we started out way back home, our driver took a side street that lead to a more wilderness area off the skirt of the highway. Suddenly we had no idea where we were, how far away we where, or if we were in danger. I finally asked the driver where we were and where he was taking us, he assured me that it was only a short cut and we were a few minutes away from our dorm. Although we had nothing to worry about, it’s important to be on guard. It goes to show how fast things can get dangerous and can be out of your control.

Crowded market

India as a whole is a very populated country. Whether it is 6 a.m. or midnight the city is always booming with activity and people out and about. Because of these, people are used to being close to others, in the street, on the bus, and shopping. The sense of personal space isn’t really a concept here. Back in the States we cherish our privacy and “bubble” so when traveling and shopping in India can be extremely overwhelming. People are shoulder-to-shoulder, back-to-back and several people could be bumping or touching you at one time and it not phase them. It has taken some adjusting but it is something that has to be accepted if I want to go anywhere and explore what there is to offer and learn. 

When hunger strikes...

Indian food back in Nebraska is one of my favorite types of meals! We have an very nice resterant called The Oven and it serves delcious varations of northern and southern Indian food. However, once I got to this country, as expected, the food wasn’t quite the same.

In India, when a family goes out for dinner they make an evening of it. Taking up to several hours. First they will go out for drinks and talk for atleast an hour, then they will go to dinner and start with a appatizer, then the main course, then dessert. Afterwards they will sit there for another hour or so to chat. Finally, if they are not too many children they will go out for more drinks and dancing. I think this is an intersting difference bettwen American and India. Many times in restaurants back home, customers are almost pushed out of their seats because they are other families waiting.

India has so many herbs, spices, and produce that we don’t have back in America. Meals are incredibly rich with a fulliness in their texture and satisfaction. Indians also tend to have a more spicy pallet. Every meal I ordered, I was asked how spicy I wanted it to be. I started off just ordering mild and sometimes that was too hot. The zest that comes with the spicy does not settle on your tongue like most dish in the States, it wakes up all your taste buds in the back of your throat and warms up your whole body.

Herbs and Spices

The typical meal in Indian is a curry based chicken or mutton (lamb) with roti. Curry is a mix of spices that creates a paste that the meat or vegatables is then cooked in. Roti is a flat bread made of wheat and looks something like a tortia. What most people do is with their right hand, and only their right hand, is tear off a piece of roti and use it to pick up or dip into the curry. Locals say a true Indian can finish their entire plate and not have a messy hand. The reason they only use their right had is that it is customary to wash and wipe oneself with their left hand, so it is seen as dirty and unsanitary for eating purposes.

Karim-Famous restaurant in Delhi 

After you are finished, the waiter will bring out a small bowl of hot water with a small lemon inside of it. This is to wash your hand. The hot water mixed with the acidity of the lemon removes any left over food particales and cleanses your hand. It feels so nice and I like to think of it as a mini manicure. If a waiter doesn’t bring out a wash bowl, there are always sinks localed by the front door or just outside of the restaurant.

Although they do have vegatarian curries, they don’t typically have vegatables in them and if they do there is not a lot of them. It is just not a big part of the culture to eat a lot of veggies. Because I am not a big meat eater back home, I have had a difficult time going without them. But what is wonderful about these types of dishes is that they are incredibly fulling, I am always satisfied after I have finsihed.

Before the meal comes out, most places will set out a dish of raw onions and lemons. It is used as an appaltizer as well as something to clean your mouth of taste between different dishes. Because no one knows exactly where these fruits and veggies have came from, I can not eat them unless they are cooked or peeled. But many Indians love to eat this small free dish when they go out for a meal.

What I have found though is that although I wont eat the mutton, the chicken is some of the most savory and tender chicken I have ever had. Often times if we order a starter it will be chicken kebobs. But these are not kebobs like back home, these are slow roasted chicken pieces in fantastic sauce and a dry seasoning. One of the main reasons that this chicken is so wonderfully full of taste is that not only are they locally raised and bought, they are not raised on hormones.

While on the other hand since the chicken and lambs are rasied and sold near by, they can be bought in the markets. There are very loose governement regulations of places that cook and sell food, therefore there is little education about safe food. Walking into any strip of  shops there is atleast one to 10 places with some sort of meat hanging in the front. These shops are more like open huts, forts, and sometimes shacks. If they are actual closed buildings, there are still not air conditionared. All sorts of flies and bugs sit and nest on these raw meats. Since I have seen this, I try to eat as little meat as possible. But there are still many delcioius snacks and meals that are sold on the streets and markets!

Street vendor

Besides Indian food with its curries and rotis, there are several Chinese food places here. Almost every place is multi-cuisine and serves both. Chinese food in India is like Mexican food in America. You can other all kinds of Chinese dishes and desserts. This can be nice to mix it up.

Our travel guide, Abinov, had been taking us around for the previous two weeks and one of his friends, Aniath, owns a high-end hotel/restaurant. We went there for our welcome dinner. We had several different types of cooked chicken, mutton, and rich rice. We had so much food that I was stuffed after the starters. After the first part of the meal, Aniath allowed us to see how our meal was being made and how to make it. We all returned to our dinner table with recipes that can be made back in the U.S.A.

Chef making spinach paneer

But once we were all relaxing and chatting some more, Aniath ordered a couple different types of desserts. I usually prefer salting things, but these desserts were the most delicious combination I have ever had. The first one was dough that is soaked in sugar syrup, fried, and dipped in the sugar syrup again. It was still warm from the fryer. What you do is take a small bit of the dough and scoop up a bit of the vanilla ice cream and eat them together. I have no idea what it is about Indian ice cream but it is hands down the best ice cream I have ever had. It is so delicate and sweet in a home-cooked way. It was the perfect way to end an evening.